June 2022
Perfect Day in Paris
A highlight of the last month was taking a trip to Paris with a beloved design client who recently purchased a 19th century home in Druid Hills. We were on the hunt to find pieces imbued with texture, history, and sculptural interest, and Paris always delivers in finding these storied curios. I actually came away with one of my favorite finds of all time - a metal daybed, wrapped in sumptuous hand stitched leather - likely from the 1930s. It’s the kind of piece that I simply could not leave without - an incredible example of the craftsmanship and unique design that I treasure. Even without a specific client for it, I know we will find the perfect place for it (hopefully in my next home!). I get a thrill scouring the Paris flea and the little markets that dot Saint-Ouen, but my perfect day in Paris is a bit more slow and quiet.
I woke up at the Cour des Vosges, a boutique hotel in the Marais neighborhood where statues and paintings mingle with old books, first editions, and award-winning novels. My room was incredible - a converted attic complete with an A-frame and original exposed centuries old wooden beams. I love modern spaces that reference the craftsmanship and beauty of the past. The hotel is a historic landmark, a chateau overlooking the Place des Vosges with original painted ceilings and period terra cotta floors. It’s on-site tea room is the perfect place to start the day with an espresso and the requisite croissant.
Sitting and savoring my coffee feels like a luxury, a nice contrast to it’s daily role of utility.
Feeling rested and invigorated, I took a short walk to the Place des Vosges, the oldest planned square in Paris, and one of the most beautiful in Europe. At the centre of the square, encircling the statue of Louis XIII, is a grove of lime and chestnut trees, from which converge gravel paths, separated by four sets of flowerbeds with beautiful trickling fountains. The squares arcades are occupied by art galleries, antique shops and elegant cafés. I could linger here all day, but I continue to stroll.
I never miss an opportunity to spend a morning in a museum. Paris is full of so many incredible ones, but the Musee d’Orsay is my absolute favorite. They have such a diverse collection of art - everything from Van Gogh to architectural models of the museum itself. I was in awe of the intricacies of the plaster models - every inch of the museum and surrounding district meticulously recreated.
For lunch, it was Bofinger- a classic French brasserie located between the Place de la Bastille and the Place des Vosges, where seafood towers and steak tartare are served atop crisp white linens. I opted for a light lunch of oysters and fries, with a glass of rose, the perfect meal to enjoy while watching the bustling mix of tourists and Parisians around me.
To work off the fries (and a week of lavish eating), I take a walk through the Tuileries. It’s not exactly a hidden gem, but it is popular for a reason. It feels quintessentially Parisian and has been used to display art and sculpture since the 17th century-the most famous examples being the water lilies series by Claude Monet within the Musée de l’Orangerie. The planned gardens never cease to amaze me, even more so that they were landscaped in the1660’s by the gardener of King Louis XIV, to give them their current French formal garden style.
Parisian makers keep me endlessly inspired, and one of my most beloved Parisian workshops is home to Astier de Villatte. We’ve carried Astier at Dixon Rye since the beginning, and their storefront is a masterclass in whimsical displays - their ceramics layered over every inch of the quaint space. Touring their work room, I found shelves designated for our latest order (coming in July!) being hand made by their expert ceramicists.
Afterwards, I stop by Officine Universelle Buly 1803 to pick up a few gifts for the team back home. Their shop is inspired by 17th and 18th century apothecaries, with rich wood cabinets, golden marble countertops, and a beautifully worn tile floor. They make these chic lip balms with leather cases that can be monogrammed. It makes the perfect gift - I picked them up for the entire Dixon Rye team.
Before heading back to the hotel, it’s a stop at Harry’s New York Bar, the most famous American bar in Paris, visited by both Ernest Hemingway and Jean-Paul Sartre. Cocktails as legendary as Bloody Mary, White Lady, and Blue Lagoon were born there. The creation I’m there for? The Boulevardier; legend goes it was invented here upon its opening in 1911. The walls are plastered with vintage collegiate memorabilia - a little taste of America in the heart of Paris.
I then head back to the hotel for a much needed nap and soak in the most luxurious tub. If I was feeling more ambitious, I’d head down to their spa, but the in-room bath will do just fine.
I tie on a recently purchased scarf and head to Anahi in the Marais (one of my favorites in Paris) to meet up with a group of friends for a final meal. We had a little bit of everything - wagyu steak, creamed spinach, jalapeños asado, and bottles of red wine. It’s the perfect evening in Paris: I’m surrounded by friends, good food, and the historic art deco details kept intact through the recent revamping of the interiors. It’s a lovely send off and the moment where I reflect on the components of the days in life I savor the most.
Other Perfect Stops for Other Perfect Days
A private cruise on the Seine - I was lucky enough to do this on my most recent trip to Paris. Aboard a wooden Venetian water taxi, the cruise winds the Seine with champagne and raspberries served atop silver platters. It’s a beautiful way to see the city and its spectacular architecture from the water.
Louis Vuitton Foundation - The LV Foundation is a must-see. The architecture, by Frank Gehry, makes it one of the most incredible modern buildings in all of Paris. The collection features modern works by Basquiat and Koons with commissioned site-specific works by Ellsworth Kelly and Janet Cardiff.
Il Sorrentino - This spot has amazing pasta with outdoor seating with views of the Eiffel Tower. An always satisfying spot - especially with someone new to Paris.
Galerie de Paléontologie et d’Anatomie comparée - One of my favorite stops in all of Paris, this peculiar museum is unlike anywhere else I’ve every been. It contains over a thousand skeletons - from dinosaurs, to elephants, to whales - displayed in a beautiful airy setting.
Maison Kitsune - While Maison Kitsune is available in the states, I love seeing it in its original habitat. It’s a great spot for sweaters and sweatshirts that give any look that effortless Parisian style.
Merci - I always love seeing the latest pop-ups in the this concept shop. From the iconic red Fiat parked outside their doors, to their editorial like presentations within its doors, I find Merci to be truly inspiring.
Deyrolle Taxidermy - A taxidermy shop that opened its doors in 1831 could truly only be found in Paris. Their collection of fossils, rare insects, and insane presentation of taxidermy is always worth a stop.